STAIN Stain comes three ways: Oil-based such as Behr, MinWax or Zar; (to just name three readily available brands), water-based such as MinWax; and GF (environmentally "Green" Friendly) commercial or made-at-home stains. There are a number of highly-efficient stains available at your hardware store or through the internet, and I have frequently used Deck Stain for variety. For your carvings -- which are rough textured and probably made of pine -- a high-priced brand is not going to produce any better result than a modestly-priced one, or, your home-made stain (more on those later). Oil-Based Stains Advantages: Oil-based stains penetrate deeply giving a rich color, add some permanent moisture in the form of oil, and can be used under or over a wood sealer (as in deck sealer) with success. Thicker stains, such as Zar, or what are known as "wipe on" stains can be thinned down for easier application and coverage. Thinner-consistency stains such as MinWax can can be further thinned to stretch out your dollar. If you plan to do a lot of staining, it is wise to purchase a gallon container. Stain colors can be tweaked by adding a little Universal Colorant, available in tubes in the paint section of your hardware or home improvement store, or with oil-based artist or stencil paints. When applied over a deck sealer, the color will not be as strong as when applied under, but this can still give you a beautiful, albeit more transparent, color. Oil-based stains can be added to polyurethane or other varnishes to tint/color them, and this gives a slightly lighter, more transparent, glazed look. Disadvantages: Oil-based stains stink, and inhaling the fumes in an enclosed space, or repeatedly, can cause respiratory problems. They also require Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner for clean up (which also stink and can damage lungs). If brushes are not cleaned thoroughly, they will become useless. They also require application in a very well-vented area, in temperatures at least 60o F, humidity levels under 90%. Depending on the stain, and climatic conditions, stains can take up to 48 hours to dry enough before a wood sealer or or other finish can be applied. All oil-based stains require wearing gloves, and while disposable latex gloves can be used, most stains make the latex disintegrate quickly. Water-based stains Advantages: Water-based stains do not penetrate as well as oil-based. They are not as noxious as oil-based and do not require the same level of ventilation, but that does not necessarily mean they are environmentally friendly. They can be thinned with water, and a little soapy water is all that is needed for clean up. They dry very quickly -- generally within an hour -- even in humid conditions, and can be successfully applied in temperatures as low as 50o F. Water-based stains generally offer more non-traditional color, and colors can be tweaked even more with Universal Colorant available in tubes available in the paint section of your hardware or home improvement store. Colors can also be tweaked with acrylic paint, either in the tube, or the more fluid "craft" type acrylics. Water-based stains are frequently called "wood dyes," and are often available in powder form (such as TransFast), so you only need to mix up what you need. Dyes differ from pigmented oil-based stains primarily in how they color the wood. Dye stains are colored solutions and the coloring particles are extremely small. They penetrate deep into the wood and color the wood fibers from within - unlike pigmented stains which leave pigment particles on the surface of the wood. For that reason, dyes are transparent, meaning they let light into the wood and do not obscure natural wood figure and overall character. Nice for your coffee table, but probably lost on your carving. Disadvantages: Water-based stains raise the grain more than oil-based stains do, although on a carving, this is not as big an issue as it would be on a furnishing, which would require a pre-stain conditioner. They do not stand up to UV rays as well as oil-based stains, and are more prone to fading in bright sunlight. Water-based stains cannot be used over a deck sealer, nor do they add any oil-moisture to your carving. Pre-mixed water-based stains will dry out in your can a lot faster if you do not thoroughly seal the lid after use, and are then difficult to reconstitute. They are also surprisingly expensive, particularly if you only plan a little staining. Environmentally "Green" Friendly (GF) Commercial or Home-Made Stains Please see below for some easy recipes The GF Stains (such as Auro Stain, Biosheilds) currently available on the market are generally non-toxic natural oil-based product. Home-made stains can be oil-based, or "water" based, depending on what you are going for, your budget, and materials at hand. Advantages: No VOCs. You can purchase, or whip up a batch of your own stain. GF stains are made from natural, common elements (home-made ones can usually be made with items found in your pantry or yard). Little-to-no ventilation is required, and while gloves are always recommended, there are no toxins to be absorbed by the skin, or VOCs leeching into the environment. Water-based home-made stains can be successfully applied in temperatures just barely above freezing, and depending upon temperature and humidity levels, dry very quickly. GF stains can be tweaked with Universal Colorant available in the paint section of your hardware or home improvement store, with a touch of acrylic paint (tube or craft), as well as other natural elements. Clean up generally only requires a little soapy water. One of the home-made oil-based recipes listed below 'dries' amazingly fast, often within 15 minutes. And, does the sense of self-satisfaction count as an advantage? Disadvantages: Oil Based: Purchased GF stains are expensive and still not widely available. (Even home-made ones can seem a little pricey.) Colors tend to be more translucent. Home-Made Water or Vinegar Based: Stains are thin, and can be difficult to apply easily, particularly on a rough surface, so pre-moistening the wood for better absorption is generally needed. They can be very messy, and generally take twice as long to apply as an oil-based stain. With vinegar-based GF stains, the color generally doesn't start to appear until about 20 minutes later, so it can be difficult to tell if you've missed spots, or even what the color is going to be. Vinegar-based stains will color differently on different types of wood, with the differences much more apparent than with commercial stains. Burned/Creosote Colorizing Many carvers choose to color their bears by a fully burned finish, touting this as a natural, environmentally friendly solution. We burn our carvings lightly for caramelized color, highlights, and to remove debris, but. The overall, dark color that comes from burning cannot be done with a small propane torch, but requires an acetylene torch. The point of this burning is to create a dark, thick creosote which colors the carvings, and the tars produced help protect the carving from elements. However, this method can be dangerous to the worker; particularly inhaled creosote; and the environment. It is also messy when touched if not sealed with an acceptable finish. Acetylene that is used for flame is exceptionally volitle. Inhaling acetylene may cause dizziness, headache, and nausea. It may also contain toxic impurities. The sulfur, phosphorus, and arsenic found in acetylene are carryovers from the synthesis ingredient coke, an impure form of carbon. The impurities in acetylene can be toxic and even fatal. PROTECTIVE FINISHING A carving is made of wood, and no matter what, wood expands and contracts, and "checking" (small superficial cracks in the wood) can naturally occur. A good finish can eliminate or greatly reduce these pesky and unshightly problems. There are many options for finishing your carving. Some are suitable for indoor only, others are suitable for both exterior and interior use. Here, we go into some of the better options for exterior use. Exterior When looking for a finish for pieces that will live primarily outdoors, it is best to opt for a Glossy finish. The glossier the finish, the more it will reflect UV rays, ergo, the better it -- and your carving -- will hold up over time. Finishes will require a minimum of two coats, and more likely three, to fully seal and provide a consistent-looking finish. Spar (Marine) Varnish is the most expensive of the lot, but it provides one of the best UV and sunlight-resistant finishes. Spar is naturally very glossy, although it is obtainable in a satin (flattening agents have been added). Varnish is generally applied with a brush, but is available in spray-can form which is handy for touch-ups or small projects that require faster drying. Overall, Spar dries quickly, can be applied in high humidity without detriment to the finish. Use Mineral Spirits for thinning and clean-up. Spar is the "clearest" of all exterior finishes, and adds none-to-exceptionally little yellow mellowing. Polyurethane is probably the most popular finish, and comes in both interior and exterior grades. Poly is odd in that, while it may feel dry to the touch, it takes a long, long time for it to actually really dry, which is why it is good for exterior use where wood will contract and expand with temperature changes. Poly will mellow, adding a yellowish cast to lighter woods and finishes. In 2007, polyurethane available to the public changed to a "low" VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) formula in an effort to reduce pollutants. While this may sound good, this EPA requirement only applies to gallon containers; small cans are still "high" VOC (makes no sense to me, either). And, this lower VOC formula can be, well, pretty much worthless, not to mention end up being really expensive. I don't care what the instructions on the side of the can say (they lie!), the new formulations require temperatures at least 65o for application, and humidity less than 70% -- or, your work will be ruined with opaque streaking and blotches that will never, ever go away, and cannot be removed. And then there is the bubbling. In order to make the new VOC 350 formulations work well -- particularly for outdoor application -- and to improve drying time and drying quality, they have to be thinned at least 5-1 with Mineral Spirits. In other words, you have to put back the VOCs that have been taken out, and personally, I find I am inhaling more fumes now than I did before they made it "safer" for me. What used to take two-to-three days to apply and dry three coats of Poly finish now takes a week or more. For best results using VOC 350, dry your pieces in bright sunlight, or in direct heat, and wait a minimum of 48 hours between coats in optimal climatic conditions. Deck Sealer is another option, and can be applied before and/or after staining with excellent results. Deck Sealer will also make unstained wood-grains nicely "pop." Deck Sealer has a yellowish tinge, and adds a mellow touch to most wood. Sealers can come colorized (and are called Deck Stains). Sealers should be reapplied every few years, per the recommendations of the specific product you choose. Deck Sealers are thin, easy to apply, and dry reasonably quickly. However, a Deck Sealer will require more frequent applications over the years, isn't as UV resistant, and does not protect against your wood checking as well as Spar or Poly. Interior Finishes for interior are either sealants, or wood preservatives. For indoor use, opt for a satin to semi-gloss finish, as glossy can poorly reflect indoor lighting, and cause wash-out white spots, which aren't terribly attractive. Sealants Sealants are self-explanatory, and they include interior-grade Polyurethane as well as interior/exterior poly; and Lacquer, and Shellac. Lacquer is my first choice when I am sealing for a piece of art that will be living indoors. Advantages: Lacquer and Shellac are "natural products," however Lacquer does contain thinning agents. Both these products require extremely good ventilation, and the smell can linger. Both of these finishes dry quickly, are available in satin to glossy, and leave a nice finish. Lacquer is moderately priced, and goes a long way. Shellac is expensive in comparison to the carving you might be sealing. Both Lacquer and Shellac can be applied over any staining medium. Lacquer is essentially non-yellowing, so it does not add a mellow or aged look. Both these finishes allow the wood to breathe. Disadvantages: Lacquer does contain thinning agents, and both need a lacquer/shellac thinner for clean-up. Both of these finishes require excellent ventilation. Lacquer has a noxious odor that can quickly cause headaches, dizziness, and a general feeling of malaise. Oils Oils are often my first choice for fine-textured carvings (chainsaw or otherwise). Favored oils are Danish (a touch smelly, but reasonably priced and easy to work with); Pure Tung Oil (a touch smelly and can be pesky and sticky to work with, but, oh, what a finish four or five hand-rubbed coats make!); Walnut Oil which is rich, smells nice, and is used as a food-stuff as well as a wood preservative (Get your oil at a specialty food market -- it will probably be half the price than in the hardware store, and it is the same stuff and does the same job). Advantages: Oils help preserve the wood, and can add a soft lustre. Oils can be applied instead of stain, under stain, or over stain. Instead of stain, they add a mellow glow and help define the grains and natural colors of the wood. Under stain, they produce is more translucent color. Over stains, they enhance the stain. Walnut oil does not require ventilation. Oils allow the wood to breathe. Disadvanages: Oils require several coats, sometimes within a short period of time, while others over a period of months. Oils require hand buffing (but I sometimes cheat with the first coats or two and use a buffing pad on my 4-1/2" grinder), and that can be difficult with rough, deeply textured surfaces. Oils can be expensive for large projects. Oils will not "slick" the surface of a rough carving, making dusting more difficult. Carving Using Home-Made GF Oil-Based Stains CLICK ON PICTURE FOR LARGER VIEW Make Your Own Stains - Soozie's Ancient Chinese Secrets When folks have asked me about stains, I have usually responded with a mysterious, "It's an ancient Chinese secret." While many of these methods are 'ancient' (at least to anyone under the age of 12), I am sharing them for your use and enjoyment. Making Oil-Based Stains This is a simple process, and you will need a jug of pure Mineral Oil (available from a drug store)and some colorant. For colorants you can use a Universal Tint -- which will provide the fastest drying time -- or oil paints. A small jar of oil-based stencil paint is my favorite, and still results in quick generally one to three days, and these paints are expensive. Black, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, and Ochre will be your staple colors to emulate commercial stains, but why stop there? Water/Vinegar Based Stains To me, a vinegar-based stain is the closest I've ever come to seeing real magic (and the neighborhood kids are as fascinated by it as I am). You put on a clear liquid, and, depending on the wood, from 10 to 20 minutes later, color appears. Color will depend on your formula components and the type of wood used. Vinegar & Galvanized Nails is known as "Pickling," and was popular in Colonial days for aging and graying-up wood. Simply, get a jar, pour in some distilled white vinegar, and wait a few days for the nails to dissolve. This does not produce a dark stain, but a light-to-deep gray on most woods. Stretch out your stain by diluting it with water up to 5-1 water/stain without loss of tint. Color can be tweaked with Universal Colorant or Acrylic craft paints. Vinegar & Steel Wool or Iron Nails produces a darker stain, from a brown and reddish-brown on pine/fir trees, to a deep black on oak. Toss a hunk of steel wool or nails into a jar, cover with distilled white vinegar,cap the jar, and in about 24 hours your 'stain' will be ready. Leave the jar uncapped, and after about 24 hours, add some water to encourage oxidation (rust) for a more reddish hue. This type of stain can be diluted up to 20-1 with water, without loss of effect, or with tea or coffee to add a touch of reddish color. Colors can be tweaked with Universal Colorants or Acrylic craft paints. Note: I am currently experimenting with other types of natural stains -- turmeric (the spice), spinach, grass, vegetables, and other natural and organic materials. However, the key to these materials -- which nicely stain fabrics -- is to see how well they hold up to UV, sunlight, and other outdoor conditions. As these experiments progress, I'll share the results with you here.